The Strait of Messina is a very unique place in the scale of the whole island. Even though the tides in Mediterranean Sea are minimal, the currents in the Strait can run at 6 knots on spring tides. That is due to bathymetry of the sea floor (submarine topography), causing a unique water dynamic.*
On the day when I’m paddling through the Strait, the current runs at around 4 knots. Since I decided to sleep at the lighthouse I still need to make an upstream move towards the harbour’s entrance. The current will be turning in my favour as I move north towards Capo Peloro.
The challenge now is to get to the other side of the harbour entrance without getting run over any boats. It’s a busy harbour so I keep my eyes wide open and bring my sprint A-game to the table. Thankfully Madonna is keeping an eye on me and soon enough I get safety to the other side.
Challenge #2. Crossing the ferry pier from where all the touristic ferries leave for the mainland. They are big. And a bit scary when you realize they can’t really see you. You just need to wait for the right moment to cross without getting run over. And since they come in and out constantly, it is a bit of a mental exercise to get it right :). Thankfully no problems there either.
Challenge #3. Watch out for the real monsters, Scilla and Criddi. According to Francesco, that’s the real crux of the Strait, the harbour and the ferries being just a tease.
And now I’m off to Capo Peloro where the gentle current is pushing me in the right direction. I go around the corner and I’m already on the north coast of Sicily heading to my next camping spot. This one I like o lot: tip of headland, no people and a great view of Stromboli.
Over next couple of days I paddle over to Capo Milazzo which is a beautiful peninsula reaching out into the sea and to Tonnarella, a marina which is a town within a town.
Knowing that there is bad weather coming on Thursday I decided to anchor down at Tindari. On my way there I stop at Tonnarella for lunch and to refill my water bag. I happen to stop next to SunSail sailing club and the guys there become interested in my presence, so we started to talk a little bit more about what’s coming our way. The guys are obviously concerned and they invite me to stay overnight on one of the sail boats moored in the marina so I would avoid the worst part of it. I obviously say yes, and to the hot shower too. I take it all in and focus on regeneration for the second week of my circumnavigation 🙂
With that I end up with 5.5 days on the water with total of 176km + 1.5 rest days. I feel warmed up and ready to start increasing my daily distance 💪🌊🛶
*I dedicate this sentence to James Stevenson who tought me the word bathymetry 😁
